Going Out No. 21: Chicken Shops
When takeout calls.
Welcome! This is the Going Out edition of Riley’s Recs, where I review a restaurant, bar, or activity here in Portland. Every Sunday, I also share Staying In recipe recommendations for your week. Don’t forget to check out pdxrecs.com for even more recommendations and follow RR on Instagram at @rileysrecs. Enjoy!
I ordered takeout a lot during the pandemic. Mostly chicken. Mostly Hat Yai.
It was a win-win: supporting local restaurants while also avoiding grocery shopping in a mask.
These days, I rarely order out. But when I do it’s still mostly chicken. And it’s still mostly Hat Yai.
There’s just no way around it: chicken is the best takeout. It travels well; usually comes with a “Family Meal” option; is cheap; and is arguably healthy.
For today’s Going Out, I’m sharing four chicken-centric restaurants where you can get a complete takeout meal for two for under $30.
Locations: 1605 NE Killingsworth St and 605 SE Belmont St
Price for two not including tip: $30
Order: Hat Yai for 2 (Half Hat Yai Fried Chicken, Sticky Rice, Curry & Roti)
With its crunchy skin and sweet-spicy sauce, the fried chicken at Hat Yai is nothing short of addictive.
So much so that you’ll find yourself skipping utensils altogether; choosing instead to rip the chicken into bite-sized pieces with your fingers, wrap them in shreds of roti bread, and dip them in the accompanying curry before shoving everything into your mouth in a manner only the privacy of home allows.
With food this good, it’s no surprise that Hat Yai is part of Earl Ninsom’s restaurant group, which includes knockout spots like Eem and Yaowarat. Like his other establishments, Hat Yai introduces Portland to cuisine that’s punchy in both its presentation and flavors. It’s an expertly executed homage to Thai street food.
Although there are other notable items on Hat Yai’s menu (like the brisket curry and short ribs), the fried chicken is the belle of the ball. And it’s a must-try for any first-time diner.
A chicken order for two will get you six pieces (two wings, two drumsticks, a thigh and a breast), crispy shallot, sticky rice, fresh-made roti bread, pickled vegetables, and curry. For just $30.
Location: 4606 NE Glisan St.
Price for two not including tip: $32.45
Order: Half Bird, Jo-Jos (large), Cabbage Slaw (large), and extra sides of Jerk and Fresno Sauces
Bury me in Big’s BBQ White Gold sauce. I want to dunk everything in it: the succulent grilled chicken, the perfectly seasoned JoJos. It’s a mayo-based Alabama barbecue sauce that’s tangy and sweet and iconic. And it’s what makes Big’s go from good to great.
Big’s is the most straight-forward chicken spot on this list. It gives backyard barbecue vibes, which makes sense considering it started as a pop-up in the parking lot of Laurelhurst Market.
The go-to takeout order is undoubtedly the Big Family Meal, which is a whole bird, two large sides, and an iceberg lettuce salad topped with chopped vegetables and hard-boiled egg. It is maybe the least inspired salad I’ve ever seen, but it does the job.
If you don’t have a “big family,” order the half-bird and two large sides. And make at least one of those sides JoJos. Skipping would be criminal. So would not trying the fried mac-and-cheese bites at least once.
At Big’s, chicken is either grilled or fried. But between you and me? Fried is a huge let-down. Get it grilled. Marinated in a fresno pepper sauce, smoked over fruit-wood, and basted with….you guessed it: White Gold BBQ Sauce.
Location: 609 SE Ankeny St. and 417 SW 13th Ave.
Price for two not including tip: $30
Order: Khao Man Gai x 2
At this point, I forget that Nong—the namesake and owner of Nong’s Khao Man Gai—was a Chopped champion. Her restaurant’s reputation for its signature dish (Khao Man Gai) has eclipsed any fame the Food Network might have afforded.
Nong’s Khao Man Gai proves how nailing every element of a dish— like the moisture of the chicken, the texture of the rice, the freshness of the sliced cucumber—can transform simple ingredients into a meal worthy of an enterprise. And a bourgeoning enterprise it is, with multiple locations and a sauce bottled and sold online and at grocery stores like New Seasons. I even saw it featured in ’s food and travel gift guide earlier this year.
The sauce is popular for a reason: it’s an original family recipe that highlights classic Thai flavors like ginger, garlic, soy, and chili. And it brings the whole chicken and rice dish together.
Not that the dish is at risk of being bland (don’t be misled by boiled chicken!). If you’ve ever made Nong’s at home (a recipe she shares liberally), you know that every step is more involved and complex than it appears.
The chicken is infused with aromatics as its poached. The “stock” from the poached chicken is used to cook the rice and make the miso-like soup that’s served alongside. The chicken skin is also fried and transformed into a crunchy topper. It’s essentially whole animal cooking, and it’s a genius way to make a dish cohesive.
Out of all the spots on this list, Nong’s Khao Man Gai travels best. Bundled and served in butcher paper, it’s the perfect lunch or dinner. And for only $15 a person, it’s an easy choice.
Location: 2340 NE Sandy Blvd.
Price for two not including tip: $23
Order: Half Bird Dinner (Half-chicken, Arrosto Salad, Rotisserie Potatoes, Sea Salt + EVOO Focaccia, Grilled Lemon, and Arrosto Sauce)
This is the best deal on the list. Which makes no sense considering Arrosto is housed inside Providore—a gourmet grocery store that has taken a good portion of my paychecks over the years.
I recently saw a post on where Joanna Goddard said her last meal would be roast chicken, peas, potatoes, and berries and cream. This feels like that kind of chicken. It’s sophisticated. It would never utter the word “spatchcocked.”
The sides are just as classy: salted focaccia, arugula salad, grilled lemon, and grill-kissed potatoes. All of this for $23 for two people. Better yet, because Arrosto is housed inside Providore (order from the kiosk near checkout), you can browse their selection of wines, cheeses, and ready-made desserts to pair with your chicken dinner.
Providore also has a happy hour in their wine department, so you could get a glass of wine, an order of cheese and crackers, and then put your chicken order in when you’re ready to head home. Just saying…
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Thanks for the shoutout - we're such big fans of Hat Yai too!
Arrosto is tasty. I love their "story":
"A long time ago on the Ligurian Coast of Italy, a dream of rotisserie chicken was born. Pastaworks owners Kevin and Kaie were visiting the region on their honeymoon, and happened upon a small market roasting succulent birds basted in lemon and rosemary that were served with potatoes doused with the drippings. This meal
became the inspiration for Arrosto. We hope when you eat our chickens, you can taste a bit of the same magic we experienced many
years ago on a sunny day in Italy."