Going Out No. 46: Grasslands Barbecue
How do they do it?
Welcome to Riley’s Recs! A place for people who love to talk about what they eat, drink, and do in Portland. This is the Going Out edition, where I review a restaurant, bar, or activity. Every Sunday, I also share Staying In recipe recommendations for your week. Don’t forget to follow RR on Instagram at @rileysrecs. Enjoy!
To eat: Pork Belly Burnt Ends, Beef Brisket, Hatch Cheddar Sausage, and Tex-Mex Slaw
To drink: Tajinada or a beer from Ferment
Cost for two including tip: $72
Address: 403 Portway Ave #300, Hood River, OR (with occasional pop-ups throughout the PNW)
Barbecue involves a lot of waiting. Waiting for salt to penetrate. For bark to darken, flavor to deepen, meat to rest. Waiting in line to order.
All in all, low-and-slow barbecue requires time.
Grasslands Barbecue, the seasonal, weekends-only food cart in Hood River, is worth the wait. You won’t regret the 60-minute drive or the line that snakes for what seems like miles during special events.
From the moment you carry your tray of food to your picnic table (proudly, like my dog finding a lost ball at the park) to the minute you’ve decided you’re full, you’ll be happy. You’ll already be planning your next trip.
Grasslands is open Friday through Sunday during the summer, and Saturdays and Sundays off-and-on throughout the rest of the year with the occasional pop-up. You might assume this means owners Drew Marquis, Brendon Bain, and Sam Carroll have other jobs. But barbecue requires a monk-like commitment, leaving little time for other work. The brisket alone takes more than 18 hours to prepare.
Sometimes it feels like novelty and limited supply is what makes barbecue so popular. But at Grasslands, that’s not the case. It’s just really, really, really good. Take the Pork Belly Burnt Ends, nuggets of layered, tender fat glazed with gochujang and coated in a ginger-scallion sauce. The burnt ends melt in your mouth, and no Grasslands order is complete without them on your tray.
The sausages, which range from a mainstay Hatch Chili and Cheddar to rotating specials like Habanero Garlic, stand out, too. Juicy and snappy, flavor permeates. Sausage is normally something I cook at home and avoid at restaurants. But here, it might just outshine the brisket or the pulled pork. Go with a group so you don’t have to make these tough choices.
And if the smoked burger (100% brisket patty, double ground, seasoned and rolled in black pepper on the edges and topped with American cheese, dill pickles, diced white onion and burger sauce) is on the menu, order immediately.
I’m a firm believer in high-quality sides. Here, too, Grasslands delivers. I have yet to try one I don’t like. The slaw is Tex-Mex style, made with chile vinaigrette, picked red onion, cotija, and pumpkin seeds. Striking in color and texture, it’s the centerpiece of any tray.
Other rotating sides have included green chile mac and cheese, cheesy picnic potatoes, and Mexican street corn salad. I can’t say a vegetarian would be happy here, but they sure can come close with a combination of these sides and a mushroom melt.
To drink, remember that there aren’t open container laws in Hood River. A lovely city ordinance. Buy a six-pack at Ferment next door and drink freely. But don’t overlook Grassland’s play on a Piña Colada. Sure, you’re in a city known for its beer. But you’ll regret not getting one.
At the risk of overstating, Grasslands is exceptional. Every time I go there’s something new to discover (they have a brisket breakfast sandwich???) and an old-favorite to savor. Sure, they’re barely open in the off-season. But these guys are, under no circumstances, phoning it in. And they have the long lines and the loyal following to show for it.
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