Hello from the Ronald Reagan International Airport! It’s crowded and hot, and I’m writing this next to the last available outlet I could find. But as long as my plane takes off safely, it’ll all be okay. The bar is low for air travel these days.
I spent this past week in Baltimore and DC for work but managed to sneak in time to see friends and visit a handful of restaurants and museums. For today’s newsletter, I figured it would be fun to share a list of places I went. I’m obviously not a local, but everywhere I ate at was either recommended to me by one or came from a trusted resource like Hannah Goldfield and . And I think I did a pretty great job of narrowing down the picks!
Because I live and breathe by Google Maps lists, I also linked all of the spots here. I included a few extra places that I didn’t actually visit, but that did come highly recommended. Hope it comes in handy on your next trip!
Dylan’s Oyster Cellar
City: Baltimore, MD
Eat: Half-Dozen Norumbega Native Oysters, Coddie, and Local Greens Salad
Drink: Happy Hour Wine
I learned about Dylan’s Oyster Cellar from an American Weekender post, and I’m so grateful that I did. It’s the perfect little corner neighborhood restaurant with a top-tier oyster program and even better bar snacks. I tried my first ever Coddie—a croquette-like fried fish that’s served with mustard and saltines. It’s a classic Baltimore snack that the owner told me is getting a nice revival lately thanks to restaurants like his. Dylan’s Oyster Cellar is the exact kind of place I want to go to on a Friday after work.
Le Comptoir du Vin
City: Baltimore, MD
Eat: Chicken Liver Pâté, Castelfranco, and Olive Oil Cake
Drink: Jean-Paul Brun Beauujolais by the glass
Hannah Goldfield, my favorite food writer of all time, named Le Comptoir du Vin her favorite meal of 2023, and it’s been sitting in my Want to Go list ever since. It did not disappoint. The whole experience was perfectly dreamy. The space is cozy, the staff is friendly, and the food is everything I want from a French-inspired bistro: rich and wine-friendly. I ordered the two of the most popular items, the pâté and the castelfranco (essentially an endive Caesar salad). Both of which I enjoyed. The pâté, in particular—whipped and served with hearty rye crackers—was spectacular.
Fadensonnen + Chachi’s
City: Baltimore, MD
Eat: Roast Chicken, Kale Salad, and Pretzel Bites
Drink: Natural Wine
This perfect little food court and patio is serviced by Chachi’s for food and Fadensonnen for drinks. I went because at this point in my trip I wanted something lighter (and to eat a vegetable), so roast chicken and kale salad sounded perfect to me. Once I got there though, I caved and added a half-order of pretzel bites. The server convinced me, not that I needed much convincing, and…wow were they good. The pretzels are made in-house and are soft and pillowy. Because they were more brioche-like, they suffered from none of the classic pretzel pitfalls: dry, overly salty, and/or stale. I would travel all the way back to Baltimore just for these pretzel bites.
Attman’s Delicatessen
City: Baltimore, MD
Eat: Reuben and Utz Chips
Drink: Diet Coke
This Jewish deli has been around since 1915. There are pictures of famous patrons all over the walls, and there’s an oil painting of Mr. Attman himself in the corner. It’s the kind of place where the manager greets you as you walk in the door and consistently checks to make sure you’re enjoying your lunch. I sat next to a couple who used to live in the area, and who claimed that a sandwich and a bag of chips used to cost $3. My Reuben was great. It was not $3. And although I’ve had better sandwiches, the experience was worth the visit.
The National Aquarium
City: Baltimore, MD
Admission Cost: $49
I almost cried at the National Aquarium. It was incredible. I touched a jelly fish. I saw sharks. I made eye contact with a turtle. I sat in on a dolphin training session.
Mostly though, I was so moved by all of the different types of fish swimming together in “Shark Alley,” which is essentially a walkway where you feel like you’re surrounded by fish (and sharks) on all sides. It was incredible to see all of the different types of fish swimming in harmony, just going about their day. I sound ridiculous, but it made me wish humans were nicer to each other.
Absolutely worth the cost of admission.
Bar Del Monte & OKPG
City: Washington D.C.
Eat: Chickpeas, Margarita Pizza, Cannoli, and Creme de Caramel
Drink: Full Monty and Martini; Bartender’s Choice
This is the sister restaurant to 2 Amy’s, a beloved pizza spot located pretty far outside of town near the cathedral. Bar Del Monte, in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood, is a more centrally located and casual alternative. Everything we ate was delicious, and I especially loved the back patio where we waited for our table to be ready.
After dinner, my friend and I went to OKPB, a speakeasy down the block. It’s a bespoke cocktail bar, meaning you can either order any of the featured cocktails or request a “bartender’s choice” by describing the kind of drink you like and having whatever the bartender whips up.
Le Diplomate
City: Washington D.C.
Eat: Burger, Fries, and Profiteroles
Drink: Martini and Old Fashioned
This is a must-do in DC. Sure, the burger is $27 and mediocre, but the vibe is so fun. My friend who recommended the spot said “Le Diplomate is a classic. You’ll need a reservation or you can walk up and get a place at the bar on most weeknights. It’s not going to be the most incredible meal but it is consistently a seven and it’s camp. Don’t let them seat you outside.” Have you ever heard a more perfect recommendation?
This dinner I did solo, and although I feel like it would be more fun in a group, the people watching at Le Dip was excellent.
National Museum of African American History and Culture
City: Washington D.C.
Admission Cost: Free
This is one of the more recent additions to the Smithsonian collection—it opened in 2016— and also one of the most talked about right now. Trump recently signed an executive order to remove pieces of history that “disparage the nation’s history via a divisive, race-centered ideology.” The day I visited, the museum had already started removing artifacts. It’s unclear what future actions the museum will be forced to take, but it would be a shame to lose what is a moving and impressive tribute to the Black experience in the United States.
The Postal Museum
City: Washington D.C.
Admission Cost: Free
I adored this museum. Located right next to Union Station, it’s a hidden gem tucked away from Smithsonian row.
The space contains several exhibits, all of which highlight famous stamps from the museum’s extensive collection and mail-related paraphernalia like historic mailboxes, letters sent from the Titanic, and, randomly, Amelia Earhart’s flight suit. There are letters sent from space, a letter delivered via the Pony Express, and a copy of the first stamp ever created.
There’s also a section dedicated to a dog who used to sneak on to mail trains. Postal employees grew to love him so much that they paid to have him taxidermied and put on display in the museum.
You have to go. The Postal Service is incredible!
Thip Khao
City: Washington D.C.
Eat: Naem Khao, Muu Hueng, and Chuenh Paa sa Moun Pa
Drink: Water
This Laotian restaurant was recommended to me by several people, and it did not disappoint. My friends and I ordered the crispy coconut rice, sesame pork jerky, and crispy catfish. Everything had a great balance of acidity, sweetness, spice, and crunch. I feel like I would come here all the time if I lived in DC.
We visited after an afternoon of listening to music for Petworth Porchfest, an annual event where neighbors play music on their front porch. It was technically canceled due to rain, but a few neighbors showed up to play anyways. If you’re in DC next April, I recommend going!
Hotels and Transport
I flew in and out of DCA because it’s the only airport with a direct flight on Alaska and because it’s only about 15 minutes from downtown.
I stayed at the Lord Baltimore Hotel but regret not booking at room at the renovated Hotel Ulysses instead. It’s the same price (about $160 a night) but located away from the chaos of downtown. Plus, it looks adorable.
In DC, I stayed at the Arlo Hotel, which I loved. It’s quiet, has a nice gym, and the rooftop bar/pool is fun. It’s about $300 a night including taxes and fees, but you get a $15 daily food credit, and the price point was on par with most hotels I was considering. DC hotels are expensive.
Although I probably could have taken a Lyft between Baltimore and DC, the train system was so easy to navigate. I just showed up and booked a ticket at the counter for the next available train. The stations are gorgeous and efficient, and it made me wish train travel was more popular and functional on the West Coast.
I took a Lyft everywhere in Baltimore and mostly walked everywhere or took the bus in DC. You can’t tap your credit card for transit here, but you can add a transit pass on Apple Wallet really easily.
Mini Itini #4: Columbia River Gorge
Going Out No. 20: OK Omens
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Shoutout to Robert Simonson for sharing his love of coddies!